inTRAlinea, Vol. 2, 1999.

"Who Says Manchester Says Cotton." Textile Terminology in the Oxford English Dictionary (1000-1960) (Patrick Leech)

Appendix B: Terms with dates of first and last occurrence and definition (adapted from OED)

Term First occurrence Last occurrence* Definition**
a la mode 1676 1861 A thin, light, glossy black silk.
abaca 1818   The native name of the palm (Musa textilis) which furnishes what is commonly known as Manilla Hemp; occasionally applied in commerce to the fibre, whence ‘the most exquisite textile fabrics, and the elegant Manilla hats are manufactured.'
alapeen 1739 1757 A mixed stuff either of wool and silk or mohair and cotton.
alexander 1500 1882 Alexandrine or Alexandrian work; a species of striped silk.
alpaca 1838   The fabric made of alpaca wool.
angola 1827   A corruption of angora; often used of the fabric made of angora wool.
angora 1867   The fabric manufactured from the wool of the angora goat, at one time commonly called angola.
antherine 1710 1739 A kind of poplin, now obsolete.
armozeen 1599   A stout plain silk, usually black, used for clerical gowns and for mourning scarves.
asbestos cloth 1857   A cloth woven from asbestos fibres.
baize 1578   A coarse woollen stuff, having a long nap, now used chiefly for linings, coverings, curtains, etc., in warmer countries for articles of clothing, e.g. shirts, petticoats, ponchos; it was formerly, when made of finer and lighter texture, used as a clothing material in Britain also.
bandanna 1752   A richly coloured silk handkerchief, with spots left white or yellow by the process described above (see following quotation: ‘plain taffaties, ordinary bandannoes, and chappas’).
barathea 1862   A cloth of a fine texture composed of a silk warp and woollen weft, also of cotton and wool and entirely of wool.
barége 1828   A light, silky dress-fabric, resembling gauze, originally made at Baréges.
barragan 1677   ‘A genteel corded stuff, much in vogue at that time for summer wear.’
barras 1640 1714 ‘A coarse linen fabric originally imported from Holland.'
barrateen 1689 1761 Some kind of woven fabric.
bath-coating 1791   A material formerly fashionable for male attire.
batiste 1697   The French word for cambric; applied, in commerce, to a fine light fabric of the same texture, but differently finished, and made of cotton as well as of linen.
baudekin 1300 1861 A rich embroidered stuff, originally made with warp of gold thread and woof of silk; later, with wider application, rich brocade, rich shot silk. Sometimes, more fully, cloth of baud(e)kin.
beaupers 1592 1720 A fabric, apparently linen; used for flags.
bedford 1862   Bedford cord, a woven fabric with prominent cords running in the direction of the warp.
bengaline 1884   A new (French) name for poplin, a mixed fabric of silk and worsted.
bengal 1680   Applied to piece goods (apparently of different kinds) exported from Bengal to England in the 17th century: cf. bengal stripes: striped ginghams, originally brought from Bengal, afterwards manufactured at Paisley.
bergamot 1882   A woven fabric or tapestry composed of a mixture of flock and hair, said to have been first produced at Bergamo in Italy.
beteela 1598 1727 A kind of muslin formerly imported from the East Indies.
black 1400   Black fabric or material.
blanket 1300 1866 A white or undyed woollen stuff used for clothing.
bombasine 1572   A twilled or corded dress-material, composed of silk and worsted; sometimes also of cotton and worsted, or of worsted alone. In black the material is much used in mourning.
borato 1578 1720 A thin fabric.
bouclé 1895   A yarn of looped or curled ply; fabric made from this.
boulter 1612   A piece of cloth used for sifting; a sieve, strainer; a bolting-machine. The fabric used for this purpose.
box cloth 1890   A thick coarse cloth material, usually of a buff colour, from which riding garments are made; also applied to the colour.
braid 1706   A woven fabric of silken, woollen, cotton, gold or silver thread in the form of a band, used for trimming or binding articles of dress.
bridgewater 1552 1607 A woollen cloth named after the place of its original manufacture.
broadcloth 1420   Fine, plain-wove, dressed, double width, black cloth, used chiefly for men's garments. (The term is now used to imply quality rather than width, which may vary considerably.)
brocade 1563   A textile fabric woven with a pattern of raised figures, originally in gold or silver; in later use, any kind of stuff richly wrought or ‘flowered' with a raised pattern; also a cloth of gold and silver of Indian manufacture.
broché 1877   Of a material, especially silk: woven with a pattern on the surface. Also a material of such a texture.
bruges 1517 1752 Name of a city of Flanders, used attributively in Bruges satin, and sometimes elliptically.
brunswick 1480 1480 The name of an obsolete textile fabric.
buckram 1222   a. A kind of fine linen or cotton fabric. b. A kind of coarse linen or cloth stiffened with gum or paste.
buckskin 1894   A kind of strong twill cloth.
buffin 1572 1632 ’A coarse cloth in use for the gowns of the middle classes in the time of Elizabeth.'
burel 1300 1720 A coarse woollen cloth (probably originally of brown colour: cf. baize); frieze.
burlap 1695   Originally perhaps a sort of holland; now a coarse canvas made of jute or hemp, used for bagging; also, a finer material used for curtains.
burnet 1284 1753 A wool-dyed cloth of superior quality, originally of dark brown colour.
bustian 1463 1725 A cotton fabric of foreign manufacture, used for waistcoats and for certain church vestments; sometimes described as a species of fustian, but sometimes mentioned as distinct from it.
byss 1314 1648 Fine linen. The word was to English writers often a mere name to which they attached no certain meaning, except that of fineness and value; in the versions of the Bible it is variously rendered; the version of 1611 has ‘fine linen'.
caddis 1536 1887 A kind of stuff; perhaps of worsted (or ? silk).
caffa 1531 1810 a. A rich silk cloth, apparently similar to damask, much used in the 16th century. b. A kind of painted cotton cloth made in India, and occurring in commerce in the 18th century.
calamanco 1592   A woollen stuff of Flanders, glossy on the surface, and woven with a satin twill and chequered in the warp, so that the checks are seen on one side only; much used in the 18th century.
calico 1578   A general name for cotton cloth of all kinds imported from the East; ‘an Indian stuff made of cotton, sometimes stained with gay and beautiful colours'; subsequently, also, various cotton fabrics of European manufacture (sometimes also with linen warp). Now, in England, applied chiefly to plain white unprinted cotton cloth, bleached or unbleached (called in Scotland and U.S. cotton).
camaca 1375 1485 A kind of fine fabric, probably of silk.
cambric 1530   A kind of fine white linen, originally made at Cambray in Flanders. (Also applied to an imitation made of hard-spun cotton yarn.)
cameline 1400   A kind of stuff made (or supposed to be made) of camel's hair: cf. camlet.
camlet 1400   A name originally applied to some beautiful and costly eastern fabric, afterwards to imitations and substitutes the nature of which has changed many times over. ‘A kind of stuff originally made by a mixture of silk and camel's hair; it is now made with wool and silk.’ ‘A light stuff, formerly much used for female apparel, made of long wool, hard spun, sometimes mixed in the loom with cotton or linen yarn.' It is uncertain whether it was ever made of camel's hair; but in the 16th and 17th centuries. It was made of the hair of the Angora goat.
canton 1860   The name of the city in southern China used attributively to denote various manufactured articles, such as Canton crape.
canvas 1260   A strong or coarse unbleached cloth made of hemp or flax, used (in different forms) as the material for sails of ships, for tents, and by painters for oil-paintings, formerly also for clothing, etc.
carde 1426 1426 Some fabric anciently used for canopies, curtains, and linings.
carmelite 1828   A fine woollen stuff, generally of a grey or other obscure colour, perhaps = French carmeline ‘wool of the vicugna' (a species of llama).
carpmeal 1610 1799 "A coarse kind of Cloth made in the North of England."
carrel 1570 1720 A fabric mentioned in the 16th and 17th centuries.
cashmere 1822   The material of which cashmere shawls are made. Also applied to a woollen fabric made in France and England in imitation of the true cashmere.
cashmerette 1886   A fabric made in imitation of cashmere, with a soft and glossy surface, for ladies' dresses.
cassimer 1704   A thin fine twilled woollen cloth used for men's clothes.
catgut 1731 1823 ‘A coarse cloth formed of thick cord, woven widely and used in the last century for lining and stiffening dress, particularly the skirts and sleeves of a coat.'
caury-maury 1287 1529 ? A kind of coarse, rough material.
cerecloth 1553   Cloth smeared or impregnated with wax or some glutinous matter.
chaisel 1205 1320 A fine linen (sometimes identified with byss or byssus).
challis 1849   A fine silk and worsted fabric, very pliable and without gloss, used for ladies' dresses, ‘introduced at Norwich about 1832, where it speedily became fashionable.'
charmeuse 1907   A soft smooth silk fabric, having a satin-like surface.
checkarsey 1552 1552 A fabric; possibly check kersey.
chenille 1738   A kind of velvety cord, having short threads or fibres of silk and wool standing out at right angles from a core of thread or wire, like the hairs of a caterpillar; used in trimming and bordering dresses and furniture.
cheviot 1883   A cloth made from Cheviot wool.
cheyney 1668 1757 A sort of worsted or woollen stuff.
chiffon 1890   A diaphanous plain-woven fabric of fine hard-twisted yarn (originally silk, later nylon, etc.); also attributively, sometimes with sense ‘light in weight'.
chintz 1614   Originally a name for the painted or stained calicoes imported from India; now, a name for cotton cloths fast-printed with designs of flowers, etc., in a number of colours, generally not less than five, and usually glazed.
ciclatoun 1225 1400 A precious material much esteemed in the Middle Ages.
cloth-of-gold 1386   A tissue consisting of threads, wires or strips of gold, generally interwoven with silk or wool; also applied to gilded cloth.
coburg 1844   A thin fabric of worsted and cotton or worsted and silk, twilled on one side; an imitation of merino, for ladies' dresses.
cobweb lawn 1603 1691 A very fine transparent lawn.
cogware 1389 1483 A coarse kind of cloth, apparently resembling frieze, made of the most inferior wool.
corduroy 1774   A kind of coarse, thick-ribbed cotton stuff, worn chiefly by labourers or persons engaged in rough work.
cottonade 1858   A name for various cotton fabrics, especially of coarse or inferior quality; cotton check.
covert 1895   Covert cloth = covert coating; covert coat, a short light overcoat worn while shooting, riding, etc., and as a dust-coat; hence covert coating, material, usually waterproof, for such coats.
crape 1633   a. A thin transparent gauze-like fabric, plain woven, without any twill, of highly twisted raw silk or other staple, and mechanically embossed, so as to have a crisped or minutely wrinkled surface. The name originally comprised fine worsted fabrics (see b.); but it is now chiefly limited to a black silk (or imitation silk) fabric much used for ladies' mourning dresses, and for funereal trimming and draping. b. In the 18th century, ‘a sort of thin worsted stuff, of which the dress of the clergy is sometimes made'.
crepe 1797   The French word for crape (used in that language in the early wider sense, and including crêpe anglais, which is called crape in English), often borrowed as a term for all crapy fabrics other than ordinary black mourning crape.
crepe de chine 1872   A white or other coloured crape made of raw silk.
crepe lisse 1825   Smooth or glossy crape, which is not crêpé or wrinkled.
crepelline 1873   A light thin material of silk, or silk and wool, used for women's dresses.
crepon 1887   A stuff resembling crape, but of firmer substance, made of fine worsted, silk, or a combination of the two.
crinoline 1830   A stiff fabric made of horse-hair and cotton or linen thread, formerly used for skirts and still for lining, etc. (For the latter purpose the name is also applied to imitations made of stiffened muslin, etc.).
crisp 1397 1619 Some thin or delicate textile fabric, used especially by women for veils or head-coverings; ? a crape-like material.
crystal 1882   ‘A very fine wide Durant [a glazed woollen stuff], once an article of export for use in making nuns' veils. Invariably made white.'
culgee 1688 1714 A rich figured silk worn as a turban or sash, or otherwise, on a festive occasion; hence, a figured Indian silk formerly imported into England.
cypress 1398 1722 A name of several textile fabrics originally imported from or through Cyprus: a. A cloth of gold or other valuable material. b. A valuable quality of satin, called more fully satin of Cypres, satin Cypres. c. A light transparent material resembling cobweb lawn or crape; like the latter it was, when black, much used for habiliments of mourning.
damask 1430   a. A rich silk fabric woven with elaborate designs and figures, often of a variety of colours. Also applied to figured materials of silk and wool, silk and cotton, or worsted or cotton only, used for furniture-covering, curtains, etc. ‘True damasks are wholly of silk, but the term is now applied to any fabric of wool, linen, or cotton, woven in the manner of the first damasks.' b. A twilled linen fabric richly figured in the weaving with designs which show up by opposite reflexions of light from the surface; used chiefly for table-linen.
damassin 1839   ‘A species of woven damask with gold and silver flowers.'
delaine 1840   Originally called in full mousseline, or muslin-de-laine: a kind of light textile fabric, chiefly used for women's dresses; originally made of wool, now more commonly of wool and cotton, and generally printed.
demi-ostade 1537 1882 A stuff, apparently half-worsted half-linen, linsey-woolsey.
denim 1695   A name originally given to a kind of serge; now (originally U.S.) to a coloured twilled cotton material used largely for overalls, hangings, etc..
diagonal 1861   a. A soft material used for embroidery; b. a black coating for men's wear.
diaper 1350   The name of a textile fabric; now, and since the 15th century, applied to a linen fabric (or an inferior fabric of ‘union' or cotton) woven with a small and simple pattern, formed by the different directions of the thread, with the different reflexions of light from its surface, and consisting of lines crossing diamond-wise, with the spaces variously filled up by parallel lines, a central leaf or dot, etc. In earlier times, the name was applied to a richer and more costly fabric, apparently of silk, woven or flowered over the surface with gold thread.
dimity 1440   A stout cotton fabric, woven with raised stripes or fancy figures; usually employed undyed for beds and bedroom hangings, and sometimes for garments.
doeskin 1851   A highly-finished closely-cut thick black cloth, twilled, but dressed so as to show very little of the twill.
doily 1678 1714 The name of a woollen stuff, ‘at once cheap and genteel', introduced for summer wear in the latter part of the 17th century.
donegal 1903   The name of a county in the north-west of Ireland; used attributively or elliptically to designate something produced in or peculiar to the county, especially a type of tweed or a kind of coarse, knotted carpet.
dorea 1696   A kind of striped Indian muslin.
dornick 1489   A silk, worsted, woollen, or partly woollen fabric, used for hangings, carpets, vestments, etc.
dowlas 1493   a. A coarse kind of linen, much used in the 16th and 17th centuries. b. Now applied to a strong calico made in imitation of this.
drab 1541   A kind of cloth.
drabbet 1819   A drab twilled linen, used for making men's smock-frocks, etc.
dreadnought 1806   A thick coat or outer garment worn in very inclement weather; also, the stout woollen cloth with a thick long pile of which such garments are made.
drill 1743   Abbreviated form of drilling: a coarse twilled linen or cotton fabric used for summer clothing, etc.
drilling 1640   A coarse twilled linen or cotton fabric used for summer clothing, etc.
drugget 1580   a. Formerly, a kind of stuff, all of wool, or mixed of wool and silk or wool and linen, used for wearing apparel. b. Now, a coarse woollen stuff used for floor-coverings, table-cloths, etc.
ducape 1678   ‘A plain-wove stout silk fabric of softer texture than Gros de Naples. Its manufacture was introduced by the French refugees of 1685.'
duchesse 1878   Duchesse satin, satin duchesse, a very soft, heavy kind of satin.
duck 1640   A strong untwilled linen (or later, cotton) fabric, lighter and finer than canvas; used for small sails and men's (especially sailors') outer clothing.
duffle 1677   A coarse woollen cloth having a thick nap or frieze.
dungaree 1613   A kind of coarse inferior Indian calico.
dunster 1601 1887 A woollen cloth, so called from a small town in West Somersetshire.
durance 1583 1709 A stout durable cloth.
durant 1766   A woollen stuff called by some everlasting; a variety of tammy.
duroy 1619   A kind of coarse woollen fabric formerly manufactured in the west of England; akin to the stuffs called tammies. (Not the same as corduroy.)
eider-down 1872   A heavily napped wool or cotton or man-made fabric of thick texture, in plain and fancy colours, used for petticoats, cloaks, bath-robes, etc.
elatcha 1613 1813 A silk fabric from Turkestan: ‘a silk cloth 5 yards long, which has a sort of wavy line pattern running in the length on one side.'
estamin 1701   An open woollen fabric, used for making sieves, etc.. In 18th century. also applied to some silk fabric, presumably of similar texture. Also spelt estamene, as the name of a woollen cloth for dresses.
etamine 1714   ‘Etamine, a sort of embroidered canvas, likely to be worn at spas.’
everlasting 1590   a. A material used in 16-17th centuries for the dress of sergeants and catchpoles, apparently identical with durance. b. In later times, a strong twilled woollen stuff, called also lasting.
faille 1869   A light kind of ribbed silk fabric. Faille française has a larger rib than faille proper, being thus intermediate between this and ‘ottoman'. More recently the term wool faille has been applied to a kind of ‘terry'.
falding 1386 1523 A kind of coarse woollen cloth; frieze.
farandine 1663 1673 A kind of cloth used in the seventeenth century, made partly of silk and partly of wool or hair.
fearnought 1772   A stout kind of woollen cloth, used chiefly on board ship in the form of outside clothing in the most inclement weather, also as a protective covering or lining for the outside door of a powder magazine, the portholes, etc..
felt 1000   A kind of cloth or stuff made of wool, or of wool and fur or hair, fulled or wrought into a compact substance by rolling and pressure, with lees or size. Also a piece of woven cloth with a felted nap used in paper-making.
ferret 1649   A stout tape most commonly made of cotton, but also of silk; then known as Italian ferret.
figuretto 1662 1775 ‘A kind of stuff so called from the flowers or other figures which are wrought upon it.’
filoselle 1612   A kind of stuff (? a mixture of silk and wool).
flannel 1503   An open woollen stuff, of various degrees of fineness, usually without a nap.
florameda 1640 1640 ‘Probably a flowered or figured stuff.'
florence 1483   The name given to certain woven fabrics: a. of wool; b. of silk.
florentine 1545   A textile fabric of silk or wool, used for wearing apparel.
foulard 1864   A thin flexible material of silk, or of silk mixed with cotton.
frieze 1418   A kind of coarse woollen cloth, with a nap, usually on one side only; now especially of Irish manufacture. Also frieze-cloth.
frizado 1542 1719 A fine kind of frieze.
fustian 1200   Formerly, a kind of coarse cloth made of cotton and flax. Now, a thick, twilled, cotton cloth with a short pile or nap, usually dyed of an olive, leaden, or other dark colour.
fustian anapes 1463 1627 Apparently. a kind of cotton velvet.
gaberdine 1904   A variety of twill-woven cloth, usually of fine worsted.
galatea 1882   A cotton material striped in blue on a white ground. It is made for women's dresses, and washes well.
gambroon 1831   A kind of twilled cloth for linings.’
garlits 1696 1812 ‘A kind of linen cloth imported from Germany.’
gauze 1561   A very thin, transparent fabric of silk, linen, or cotton.
genoa 1766   The name of a city of Italy. Used in names of articles connected with Genoa, as Genoa velvet.
georgette 1915   A thin, semi-transparent, plain-woven crepe made from fine, hard-twisted silk or other yarns. Also georgette crepe.
gimp 1664   Silk, worsted, or cotton twist with a cord or wire running through it. Now chiefly applied to a kind of trimming made of this, sometimes covered with beads or spangles.
gingham 1615   A kind of cotton or linen cloth, woven of dyed yarn, often in stripes, checks, and other patterns. In plural, fabrics of this kind.
glacé 1847   Of cloth, leather, etc.: having a smooth surface with a high polish or lustre. Also = glacé silk and = glacé leather.
grazet 1696   A kind of woollen stuff.
grenadine 1852   An open silk or silk and wool textile used for dresses.
grogram 1562   A coarse fabric of silk, of mohair and wool, or of these mixed with silk; often stiffened with gum.
gros de Naples 1799   A heavy silk fabric, made originally at Naples.
gulix 1696   A kind of fine linen.
gunny 1711   A coarse material used chiefly for sacking and made from the fibres of jute or (in some parts) from sunn-hemp; a sack of this material.
haberjet 1502 1865 A kind of cloth named in Magna Carta, and in some ancient documents.
harden 1430   A coarse fabric made from the hards of flax or hemp.
harrateen 1711 1825 A kind of linen fabric formerly used for curtains, bed-furniture, and the like.
harris 1892   The name of the southern section of the island of Lewis with Harris in the Outer Hebrides, used (chiefly attributively) to designate the hand-woven tweed produced by the inhabitants of this region. Also elliptically (Harris is a proprietary term in relation to tweed manufactured in the island of Lewis with Harris).
hemp roll 1696 1696 ‘A strong coarse Linnen and when whited very good for Sheets for Poor People.’
henrietta 1851   Designating a light-weight dress fabric, sometimes with a silk warp.
hessian 1881   A strong coarse cloth, made of a mixture of hemp and jute, employed for the packing of bales.
holland 1427   A linen fabric, originally called, from the province of Holland in the Netherlands.
homespun 1607   Cloth made of yarn spun at home; also, a coarse and loosely-woven material made in imitation of home-made cloth.
hopsack 1892   a. The material of which hop-sacks are made, a coarse fabric composed of hemp and jute. b. Applied to a woollen dress-fabric made with a roughened surface.
hopsacking 1884   a. The material of which hop-sacks are made, a coarse fabric composed of hemp and jute. b. Applied to a woollen dress-fabric made with a roughened surface.
huckaback 1696   A stout linen fabric, with the weft threads thrown alternately up so as to form a rough surface, used for towelling and the like.
imperial 1476 1876 Short for cloth imperial: a textile fabric in use in the Middle Ages, with figures woven in gold; apparently so called as being made at Constantinople.
inderkins 1696 1696 ‘A coarse narrow Cloth which comes from Hamborough - it is made of the worst of Hemp.’
inkle 1545   A kind of linen tape, formerly much used for various purposes.
italian cloth 1867   A kind of linen jean with satin face, largely employed for linings (in French, satin de Chine; Italian, zanella).
janus cloth 1877   Materials with a double facing, or things having a two-way action.
jap silk 1895   Colloquial abbreviation of Japanese. Also as adjective, specifically Jap silk = Habutai.
jean 1567   A twilled cotton cloth; a kind of fustian. Originally jene (ge(a)ne, geanes) fustian, shortened to jeanes, jean, etc. The form jeans is used in U.S..
jersey 1583   The name of the largest of the Channel Islands: used attributively and elliptically, especially in reference to the knitting of stockings and other worsted articles, which was long a staple industry of Jersey; attributively of Jersey; of Jersey worsted. Hence also used of fine machine-knitted fabric generally.
kendal 1389 1687 A species of green woollen cloth.
kenting 1657 1793 A kind of fine linen cloth.
kersey 1390   A kind of coarse narrow cloth, woven from long wool and usually ribbed.
kerseymere 1798   A twilled fine woollen cloth of a peculiar texture, one-third of the warp being always above, and two-thirds below each shoot of the weft.
kincob 1712   A rich Indian stuff, embroidered with gold or silver; also a piece or variety of this.
lake 1386 1603 Fine linen.
lamé 1922   A material consisting of silk or other yarns interwoven with metallic threads.
lasting 1782   A durable kind of cloth; = everlasting.
lawn 1415   a. A kind of fine linen, resembling cambric; pieces or sorts of this linen. b. specifically, this fabric used for the sleeves of a bishop. Hence, the dignity or office of a bishop.
leno 1821   A kind of cotton gauze, used for caps, veils, curtains, etc. Also attributively. Hence, the type of weave used for this fabric.
levantine 1831   ‘A very rich-faced stout twilled black silk material, exceedingly soft, and of excellent wear.’
linsey-woolsey 1483   Originally a textile material, woven from a mixture of wool and flax; now, a dress material of coarse inferior wool, woven upon a cotton warp.
lisse 1852   A kind of silk gauze.
lockram 1483 1820 A linen fabric of various qualities for wearing apparel and household use.
long cloth 1545   A kind of cotton cloth or calico manufactured in long pieces; especially cloth of this kind made in India.
lukes 1472 1547 Made at Liège; said especially of velvet.
lungi 1634   A loin cloth. Also, the material of which this is made.
lustring 1697 1886 A glossy silk fabric.
lyre 1421 1490 The name of a town in Brabant, now Lire or Liere, occurring in the designations of certain kinds of cloth, as black of lyre (black a-lyre, black of lure), green of lyre (grene alyr, grene lyre).
manchester 1777   Some kind of cotton fabric.
mantua 1709 1787 A material; ? = mantua silk.
marble 1520 1720 A mottled or dappled colour resembling that of variegated marble; hence, a cloth of such a colour.
marcella 1812   A kind of twilled cotton or linen cloth used for waistcoats, etc.
marocain 1922   A dress fabric of ribbed crêpe. Also, a garment made from marocain.
marry-muffe 1604 1640 Some kind of cheap textile fabric; a garment made of this.
marseilles 1762   A stiff cotton fabric, similar to piqué.
medley 1438   A cloth woven with wools of different colours or shades; = medley-cloth.
melton 1823   The name of a town in Leicestershire (more fully Melton Mowbray), a famous hunting centre. Used attributively in Melton Jacket, also in Melton cloth (see quot. 1882) and elliptically as noun.
merino 1818   A soft woollen material resembling, but finer than, French cashmere, originally manufactured of merino wool, and later of a fine wool mixed with cotton.
merv 1887   A silk material for ladies' dresses and dress-trimmings.
messellawny 1612 1640 Some textile fabric.
minikin 1604 1721 Used to designate some kind of baize.
mockado 1543 1660 A kind of cloth much used for clothing in the 16th and 17th centuries. Also attributively, as mockado cassock, doublet, etc.; mockado ends, fringe (mentioned as a commodity sold by weight); tuft mockado, a peculiar kind of mockado decorated with small tufts of wool.
mohair 1570   Properly, a kind of fine camlet made from the hair of the Angora goat, sometimes watered. Also, yarn made from this hair. In modern use often applied to a fabric in imitation of the true mohair, in the 18th century wholly of silk, but now usually of a mixture of wool and cotton.
moire 1660   Originally a kind of watered mohair; afterwards, any textile fabric (but usually silk) to which a watered appearance is given in the process of calendering; a watered or clouded silk. Moire antique, explained by French lexicographers to mean a watered silk of large pattern, is in English use practically synonymous with moire, which is apprehended as a shortened form.
moory 1696   A kind of Indian cloth.
moreen 1691   A stout woollen or woollen and cotton material either plain or watered, used for curtains, etc.
morella 1670 1702 A kind of material used for dresses, curtains, etc. Also morella mohair.
moss crepe 1955   A dress fabric which relies for its characteristic effect on a special yarn called a moss crêpe yarn.
motley 1386 1617 A cloth of a mixed colour; a mixture.
mousseline 1696   French muslin; also, a dress of this material; a dress-material originally composed wholly of wool, but afterwards of wool and cotton, printed with varied patterns.
mumull 1676   A thin variety of muslin.
mungo 1857   A fabric made from the short fibres recovered from old hardwoven or felted material.
muslin 1609   The general name for the most delicately woven cotton fabrics, including many varieties, used for ladies' dresses, curtains, hangings, etc..
musterdevillers 1400 1564 A kind of mixed grey woollen cloth, much used in the 14th and 15th centuries.
nainsook 1804   A cotton fabric, a kind of muslin or jaconet, of Indian origin; a garment made of this.
nankeen 1755   A kind of cotton cloth, originally made at Nanking from a yellow variety of cotton, but now extensively manufactured from ordinary cotton and dyed yellow.
napkining 1640 1812 Material for napkins.
naps 1771   A cloth having a nap on it.
nettle cloth 1539   a. Cloth made of nettle-fibres. b. Cotton cloth, calico.
nilla 1696 1757 A kind of Indian piece-goods.
ninon 1911   A light-weight fabric, used especially in dresses, made in a plain weave from silk, rayon, or nylon.
norwich crape 1821   A textile fabric manufactured, or as manufactured, in Norwich.
norwich poplin 1860   A textile fabric manufactured, or as manufactured, in Norwich.
norwich stuff 1618   A textile fabric manufactured, or as manufactured, in Norwich.
nun's cloth 1884   A thin woollen stuff.
nun's veiling 1883   A thin dress-stuff.
oilcloth 1697   A general name for any fabric of cotton, linen, hemp, etc. prepared with oil, so as to be rendered waterproof.
orange-list 1830   A kind of wide baize.
organdie 1835   A very fine and translucent kind of muslin.
orleans 1844   A fabric of cotton warp and worsted weft, brought alternately to the surface in weaving.
osnaburg 1545   A kind of coarse linen originally made in Osnabrück.
ottoman 1883   A kind of fabric of silk, or silk and wool.
paduasoy 1663   A strong corded or gros-grain silk fabric, much worn in the 18th century by both sexes, of which poult-de-soie is the modern representative.
panne 1794   A soft kind of cloth with a long nap, resembling velvet.
paragon 1605 1739 A kind of double camlet; a stuff used for dress and upholstery in the seventeenth and early eighteenth century.
paramatta 1834   A light dress fabric having a weft of combed merino wool and a warp formerly of silk, but now generally of cotton.
parisian cloth 1960   ’An English textile of cotton warp and worsted weft.’
peeling 1611 1769 A thin skin or fabric formerly used as a dress material.
pekin 1783   A kind of silk stuff.
penistone 1551 1778 A kind of coarse woollen cloth formerly used for garments, linings, etc.
percale 1621   Originally a fabric imported from the East Indies in the 17th and 18th centuries.
percaline 1858   A glossy kind of French cotton cloth, usually dyed of one colour.
perpet 1715 1745 Abbreviation of perpetuana: a durable fabric of wool manufactured in England from the 16th century (cf. the similar names everlasting, durance, lasting, etc.).
perpetuana 1599   A durable fabric of wool manufactured in England from the 16th century (cf. the similar names everlasting, durance, lasting, etc.).
perse 1386   In early writers, blue, bluish, bluish-grey; in later writers often taken (after Italian) as a dark obscure blue or purplish black; also as name of the colour, or of a stuff of the colour.
persian 1696 1876 A thin soft silk, usually used for linings. Also called Persia or Persian silk.
petersham 1812   A thick kind of ribbon of ribbed or corded silk used for strengthening the waists of women's dresses, and for belts and hatbands.
philip 1614 1668 A kind of worsted or woollen stuff of common quality (erroneously Phillipine, Cheny).
pine-wool 1884   A wool-like material made from the spun fibres of pine-leaves, used in some countries for garments.
plaid 1512   The woollen cloth of which plaids are made; later, applied to other fabrics with a tartan pattern.
plain 1600   Plain cloth; a kind of flannel.
plain-backs 1830   Weavers' name for a kind of worsted fabric
pleasance 1420   A fine kind of lawn or gauze; in a 1548 identified with lumberdyne.
plumbet 1533 1882 A woollen fabric; the same as plunket.
plunket 1375   A woollen fabric of varying texture, of a grey or light blue colour.
plush 1594   A kind of cloth, of silk, cotton, wool, or other material (or of two of these combined), having a nap longer and softer than that of velvet; used for rich garments (especially footmen's liveries), upholstery, etc.
poldavy 1481   A coarse canvas or sacking, originally woven in Brittany, and formerly much used for sailcloth.
poplin 1710   A mixed woven fabric, consisting of a silk warp and worsted weft, and having a corded surface; now made chiefly in Ireland. Also applied to imitations of this.
poult de soie 1835   A fine corded silk; ‘a plain silk of rich quality in a soft and bright grosgrain make' ; now most frequently applied to coloured goods.
print 1756   A printed cotton fabric; a piece of printed cotton cloth. Also, a pattern printed on fabric.
prunella 1656   A strong stuff, originally silk, afterwards worsted, formerly used for graduates', clergymen's, and barristers' gowns; later, for the uppers of women's shoes.
puke 1466 1612 A superior kind of woollen cloth, of which gowns were made.
pullicate 1792   a. A coloured handkerchief, originally made at Pulicat. b. Later, a material made in imitation of these, woven from dyed yarn.
raines 1526 1721 Cloth of Raine(s), a kind of fine linen or lawn made at Rennes in Brittany.
rash 1578   A smooth textile fabric made of silk (silk rash), or worsted (cloth rash).
ratteen 1685   A thick twilled woollen cloth, usually friezed or with a curled nap, but sometimes dressed; a frieze or drugget.
rattinet 1811 1838 A woollen stuff, somewhat thinner and lighter than ratteen.
ray 1300 1837 A kind of striped cloth.
renforcée 1688 1698 A strong make of silk.
rep 1860   A textile fabric (of wool, silk, or cotton) having a corded surface.
ribbon 1545   A narrow woven band of some fine material, as silk or satin, used to ornament clothing or headgear, or utilized for other purposes; without article, as a material.
roan 1617 1696 a. The place-name used attributively to designate the linen cloth made there. b. A make of linen from Rouen.
romal 1683   A thin silk or cotton fabric with a handkerchief pattern.
rug 1558 1711 A rough woollen material, a sort of coarse frieze, in common use in the 16 -17th centuries.
russell 1868   A ribbed or corded fabric, usually made with a cotton warp and woollen weft. Commonly called russell cord.
russet 1275   A coarse homespun woollen cloth of a reddish-brown, grey or neutral colour, formerly used for the dress of peasants and country-folk.
sackcloth 1373   A coarse textile fabric (now of flax or hemp) used chiefly in the making of bags or sacks and for the wrapping up of bales, etc.; sacking.
sagathy 1707 1884 ‘A slight woollen stuff; being a kind of serge, or ratteen; sometimes mixed with a little silk.’
salempore 1598   ‘A blue cotton cloth formerly made at Nellore in India, and largely exported to the West Indies, where it was the usual slave cloth.’
sameron 1556 1684 ‘Sammaron, is a Cloath between Linnen and Hempen, not altogether so course as the one, nor fine as the other.’
samite 1300 1971 A rich silk fabric worn in the Middle Ages, sometimes interwoven with gold. Also, a garment or a cushion of this material.
sannah 1696 1850 Some kind of cotton fabric formerly exported from India.
sarcenet 1463   A very fine and soft silk material made both plain and twilled, in various colours, now used chiefly for linings; a dress made of this.
satara 1878   A woollen cloth.
sateen 1878   A cotton or woollen fabric with a glossy surface like that of satin.
satin 1366   A silk fabric with a glossy surface on one side, produced by a method of weaving by which the threads of the warp are caught and looped by the weft only at certain intervals.
satinet 1703   An imitation of satin woven in silk, or silk and cotton.
satinisco 1615 1661 An inferior quality of satin.
saxony 1842   A fine kind of wool, and cloth made from it. Several distinct kinds of fabric are thus designated.
say 1297   A cloth of fine texture resembling serge; in the 16th century sometimes partly of silk, subsequently entirely of wool.
scarlet 1250 1859 In early use, some rich cloth, often of a bright red colour, but also sometimes of other colours, as blue, green, brown.
scotch cloth 1675 1738 A textile fabric resembling lawn, but cheaper; said to have been made of nettle fibre.
seersucker 1722   A thin linen, or sometimes cotton, fabric, striped and with a crimped or puckered surface, of Indian manufacture. Also (and now chiefly) applied to imitations made elsewhere. Also, a garment made of seersucker.
sempiternum 1633 1665 A quality of woollen cloth made in the 17th century and similar to perpetuana.
sendal 1225   A thin rich silken material; also, a covering or garment of this material.
serge 1386   A woollen fabric, the nature of which has probably differed considerably at different periods. The name now denotes a very durable twilled cloth of worsted, or with the warp of worsted and the woof of wool, extensively used for clothing and for other purposes. Certain imported varieties were formerly known by French designations indicating the place of manufacture, as serge de Ghent, serge de Nismes, serge de Ro(h)an, serge de Shaloon.
shag 1592   A cloth having a velvet nap on one side, usually of worsted, but sometimes of silk.
shagreen 1702 1741 A silk fabric.
shalloon 1678   A closely woven woollen material chiefly used for linings.
shantung 1882   A soft undressed Chinese silk.
sheeting 1711   Stout cloth of linen or cotton, such as is used for bed linen, etc.
shirting 1604   Material for shirts; specifically. a kind of piece-goods of stout cotton cloth suitable for shirts but also used for other garments.
shoddy 1847   A cloth composed of shoddy wool; more fully shoddy cloth.
sicilienne 1873   A fine poplin made of silk and wool.
silesia 1727   A fine linen or cotton fabric originally manufactured in Silesia.
sindon 1450   A fine thin fabric of linen; a kind of cambric or muslin.
stamin 1225   a. A coarse cloth of worsted; in earliest use usually an under garment made of this worn by ascetics. b. In later use, a kind of woollen or worsted cloth, for outer garments, curtains, etc. for which Norfolk was formerly noted; = tamin, tammy.
stammel 1530 1665 A coarse woollen cloth, or linsey-woolsey, usually dyed red; an under-garment of this material, worn by ascetics.
straits 1429 1706 Cloth of single width, as opposed to broadcloth.
stuff 1643   ‘This term may be applied to any woven textile, but it more especially denotes those of worsted, made of long or "combing wool". Stuffs are distinguished from other woollen cloths by the absence of any nap or pile.’
suedette 1915   A material designed to imitate the texture of suede, especially a type of cotton or rayon fabric with a suede-like nap.
superfines 1812   Goods of superfine quality (see the following quotation: ‘The chief manufacture is cloth, which was formerly almost wholly of the coarser kinds; but the manufacture of superfines has of late increased’).
surah 1873   A soft twilled silk fabric used for women's dresses.
surat 1643   The name of a town and district in the presidency of Bombay, India, used attributively to designate (a) a kind of cotton produced in the neighbourhood, (b) coarse cotton goods, usually uncoloured.
swansdown 1801   a. A soft thick close woollen cloth. b. A thick cotton cloth with a nap on one side, also called Canton or cotton flannel.
swanskin 1694   A fine thick kind of flannel; also, a woollen blanketing used by printers and engravers as an elastic impression-surface.
tabby 1638   A general term for a silk taffeta, apparently originally striped, but afterwards applied also to silks of uniform colour waved or watered.
tabine 1611 1626 Apparently the same as tabby, the cloth (a general term for a silk taffeta, apparently originally striped, but afterwards applied also to silks of uniform colour waved or watered).
tabinet 1778   A watered fabric of silk and wool resembling poplin: chiefly associated with Ireland.
taffetta 1373   A name applied at different times to different fabrics. In early times apparently a plain-wove glossy silk (of any colour); in more recent times, a light thin silk or union stuff of decided brightness or lustre. In the 16th century mention is also made of ‘linen taffety'. In recent times the name has been misapplied to various mixtures of silk and wool, and even cotton and jute, thin fine woollen material, etc.
tammy 1665   A fine worsted cloth of good quality, often with a glazed finish. Much mentioned in 17th and 18th centuries, but apparently obsolete before 1858. The name was revived as a trade-term in the late 19th century.
tape 1000   A narrow woven strip of stout linen, cotton, silk, or other textile, used as a string for tying garments, and for other purposes for which flat strings are suited, also for measuring lines, etc.
tarlatan 1727   A kind of thin open muslin, used especially for ball-dresses.
tars 1300 1450 A rich and costly stuff of Oriental origin, used in the West in the 14th and 15th centuries.
tartan 1500   A kind of woollen cloth woven in stripes of various colours crossing at right angles so as to form a regular pattern; worn chiefly by the Scottish Highlanders, each clan having generally its distinctive pattern; often preceded by a clan-name, etc. denoting a particular traditional or authorised design. Also, the pattern or design of such cloth, and applied to silk and other fabrics having a similar pattern.
tartarin 1343 1688 A rich stuff, apparently of silk, imported from the East, probably from China through Tartary.
taunton 1499   Name of a town in Somersetshire; hence short for Taunton cloth, a woollen cloth formerly made there.
tavistock 1535 1552 A woollen cloth formerly made at the town of Tavistock.
tawny 1416   Cloth of a tawny colour.
terry velvet 1835   Of pile-fabrics: looped, having the loops that form the pile left uncut, as terry pile, terry velvet.
thickset 1756 1882 A stout twilled cotton cloth with a short very close nap; a kind of fustian; also, a garment of this material.
thunder and lightning 1766 1868 Applied to a cloth, apparently of glaring colours, worn in 18th century, and perhaps later.
ticklenburg 1696   A kind of coarse linen cloth.
tie silk 1920   A strong silk fabric used especially for ties and clothing.
tiffany 1601   A kind of thin transparent silk; also a transparent gauze muslin, cobweb lawn.
tinsel 1526 1755 A kind of cloth or tissue; tinselled cloth; a rich material of silk or wool interwoven with gold or silver thread (cf. baudekin); sometimes apparently, a thin net or gauze thus made, or ornamented with thin plates of metal; later, applied to a cheap imitation in which copper thread was used to obtain the sparkling effect.
tissue 1366 1910 A rich kind of cloth, often interwoven with gold or silver.
tobine 1755 1858 = tabine: a general term for a silk taffeta, apparently originally striped, but afterwards applied also to silks of uniform colour waved or watered.
toilinet 1799   A kind of fine woollen cloth: used in the first half of the 19th century for waistcoats of grooms, huntsmen, etc.
tuke 1477   Canvas, such as is used for an awning or canopy; but also applied to a finer fabric.
tulle 1818   A fine silk bobbin-net used for women's dresses, veils, hats, etc.
tuly 1321 1523 An attribute of silk, tapestry, etc. of a rich red colour; perhaps originally applied to such fabrics imported from Toulouse.
turkin 1483 1618 A kind of light blue cloth.
tussore 1619   A coarse brown silk (furnished by Antheræa mylitta and other species of silkworm) made in and imported from India.
tweed 1847   A twilled woollen cloth of somewhat rough surface, and of great variety of texture, originally and still chiefly made in the south of Scotland (usually of two or more colours combined in the same yarn); inferior kinds are made of wool with a mixture of shoddy or cotton.
valencia 1838   A mixed fabric mainly employed for waistcoats, having a wool weft with a warp of silk, silk and cotton, or linen, and usually striped.
velours 1706   ‘A kind of velvet or plush for furniture, carpets, etc. manufactured in Prussia, partly of linen and partly of double cotton warps with mohair yarn weft.
velveret 1769   A variety of fustian with a velvet surface.
velvet 1320   A textile fabric of silk having a short, dense, and smooth piled surface; a kind or variety of this.
velveteen 1776   A fabric having the appearance or surface of velvet, but made from cotton in place of silk.
venetian 1710   A closely-woven cloth having a fine twilled surface, used as a suiting or dress material.
vermillion 1641 1641 A fabric dyed with vermilion.
vesse 1483 1523 A kind of worsted fabric formerly made in Suffolk.
victoria crape 1877   ‘A very successful imitation of real crape is made in Manchester of cotton yarn, and sold under the name of Victoria crape.’
vicuna 1851   A South American animal (Auchenia vicunna), closely related to the llama and alpaca, inhabiting the higher portions of the northern Andes and yielding a fine silky wool used for textile fabrics; thus Vicuña cloth; also, a garment made of this.
vigogne 1873   A textile fabric made from the wool of the vicuña, used as a dress material; vicuña-cloth.
vitry 1425 1867 Vitry canvas, a kind of light durable canvas.
voile 1889   A thin semi-transparent cotton or woollen material much used for blouses and dresses.
wad 1540 1761 A material composed of matted fibres of silk, raw cotton, etc.
wadmal 1392   A kind of woollen cloth. a. In England, a coarse woollen material used principally for covering horse-collars, and other rough purposes; also (especially in the south-west) for petticoats, mittens, etc.). b. In Scotland, a woollen fabric woven in Orkney and Shetland. c. A woollen fabric worn by country people in Scandinavia and Iceland.
watchet 1198 1865 A light blue colour; cloth or garments of this colour.
west of England 1843   The name of a region of England, used to designate high-quality woollen broadcloth for which it has long been noted.
whipcord 1895   A close-woven ribbed worsted material used for dresses, riding breeches, etc.
wildbore 1784   A stout and closely woven unglazed tammy.
worcester 1551 1551 ‘The name of the county town of Worcestershire, used attributively to designate articles originating there, e.g. (formerly) a fine cloth.’
worsted 1293   A woollen fabric or stuff made from well-twisted yarn spun of long-staple wool combed to lay the fibres parallel.
zanella 1876   ‘A mixed twilled fabric introduced of late years, and used for covering umbrellas.’
zephyr 1849   A fine light cotton cloth of the gingham type used for women's dresses, having the colours woven into the fabric.
zibelline 1892   A soft smooth woollen material with a slightly furry surface, used for women's dress..

* If obsolete

** Quotation marks indicate the use of a quotation by the OED.